Mussoorie sunny side up, topped with a hint of Landour

Spellbinding views, untouched forests, luxurious and historic lodgings, Maggi, momos and ginger lemon tea. Discover the joys of Mussoorie and Landour.

William Henry Davies had it right when he famously wrote: “What is this life if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare.” Sometimes, travel is not just about making memories, but also about making time. To grab that moment of peace amidst the sea of routine. To take the time to just “be”. So, when the “queen of the hills” called, we answered.

Dial M for Mountains…

The drive to Mussoorie

Mussoorie is rightfully known as the queen of hills in India. A beautiful 2-hr drive from Dehradun, the city gets its name from the British mis-pronunciation of the Mansoor shrub that grows in the region. A summer retreat for heat-escaping British during the Raj, remnants of the colonial era add a distinct charm and character to its appearance.

Travel tip: For travellers from Mumbai, Jet Airways offers a non-stop, direct flight to Dehradun. Mussoorie and Landour are great options for those summer months when most of the country battles oppressive heat.

It’s in the air…

Our foray into Mussoorie began with a shared bowl of Maggi slurped at a shack somewhere before the climb up to the city. Rickety tables overlooked a beautiful valley, while bright sunshine created a dazzling halo over everything it touched. One bowl became two. Maggi never tasted so good. It wasn’t just the seasoning – though liberal amounts of garlic, coriander and green chilies certainly had our taste buds buzzing – it was the air. It is amazing how a place can change the flavour of food so dramatically.


Property, property, property…

On we drove, up and around the hill taking in the beautiful views, the buzzing Mall Road, the beautiful Savoy, until finally, we left it all behind to reach our destination: the J W Marriott Walnut Grove Resort & Spa. Constructed as a rather underwhelming building, the property is quite modern and luxurious inside. Though the hotel has a fabulous location away from the hustle bustle of the town center, views of the mountains are interrupted partially by the property itself. Nevertheless, its amazing recreational activities (massive indoor entertainment zone) and fabulous food more than make up for the less-than-charming layout and exterior. Not to mention, the supremely relaxing L’Occitane en Provence Spa.

Live music on the lawns

A highlight, was the high-tea served on the pretty lawns each evening. The menu was short but flavourful: Pahadi chai (local tea brewed with spices for 1-2hrs), fresh corn roasted on traditional coal stoves, roasted groundnuts, cookies and light snacks. Families and staff played badminton and local musicians strummed popular tunes as guests lounged on blankets, hammocks, beanbags and benches spread across lawns that overlooked majestic mountains.

The hills are alive…

Treks are a great way to peek into untouched Mussoorie. We opted for the J W Marriott’s Pine forest trek as well as a visit to a Buddhist monastery. The manicured beauty of the hotel gave way to the natural beauty of the land.

A happy goat

We walked at the relaxed pace, taking in the views interspersed with some local huts. We heard a tinkling sound and turned just in time to dodge an errant goat that decided to move ahead of its herd. Accompanied by some local villagers, the herd was out to graze in the forest.

The pine forest, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, India
Peaceful pine forest

Our chatty guide regaled us with charming childhood tales: running through forests, sliding down hillsides, catching bugs in matchboxes, stealing apples, splashing in streams and bathing in waterfalls. As we continued our ascent, the openness gave way to the slightly dense Pine forest. We found the perfect spot to pause for refreshments, while listening to the music of chirping birds and buzzing forest creatures. With nary a soul for miles around, the feeling of peace was incredible.

Travel tip: Opt for a trek to the bird sanctuary. Though relatively long, it offers  more beautiful views and goes deeper into the forest.

Where wildflowers grow and eagles soar…

It was a day of feasting on views. Literally. Each more stunning than the one before and always just a plate of momos or bowl of Maggi away from each other.

…Leaving the pine forest behind, we marched onward on a less-than-exciting cement road to the Buddhist monastery. The monastery itself was simple, but the sight of colourful flags waving in the wind and altitude provided lovely views over the surrounding areas.

Next stop: Everest Estate. Home to Sir George Everest, namesake of Mount Everest, and severely in need of maintenance, the property offered stunning views of the hills. Blue skies greeted the hills with tufts of fluffy white clouds, while the hills reached up shrouded in shades of green.

The drive to the Everest house itself was scenic enough for us to pause for an impromptu picnic at a roadside shack.

Advertising done right…

…While heading to our next “viewpoint”, we saw signs for “See Green Café”. Every quarter mile or so, sign posts pinpointed the location and spotlighted items from the menu. So of course, we paused for some Maggi and lemon ginger tea. Again delicious and again one bowl turned into two. Air. It had to be the air.

The road less travelled

Final stop: Cloud’s End. A “resort” of sorts, that is best reserved for visiting rather than staying. We followed a trail to the back of the property and into the woods in hopes of finding the infamous Echo point. Instead of inspiring us to shout, what we found left us speechless.

The path led to a clearing surrounded by woods and wildflowers that overlooked the valley and hills. Green all around, with the road a distant slash of white snaking through the wilderness. One, two, three eagles swooped and soared over the mountains. Leaves and wildflowers swayed in the breeze as butterflies flitted around.

Picture perfect: mountains, clouds and wildflowers

There are no words to describe what seeing such beauty does for the soul.

How many ways can I love thee…

A visit to Mussoorie would be incomplete without a visit to its busy, commercialized, heart – Mall Road. We discovered the lively center of Mussoorie via a halt for grub on Mall Road.

Disappointed to find an endless wait for fabulous smelling pizza at the famous Little Llama Cafe, we settled for smoothies with a view instead. Rumbling stomach under control, we headed to the authentic, crowded and fabulous Kalsang for some Thukpa (noodle soup) and momos. A meal that must not be missed.

While we opted for a brief halt, Mall Road offers plenty of additional options for munching (Clock Tower Cafe), browsing (Cambridge Book Depot – frequented by Ruskin Bond), strolling (Camel Back Road) or indulging (Chic Chocolate). Design the Mussoorie experience that delights you.

We saw and loved Mussoorie from virtually every angle: the drive up from Dehradun, trek into its interiors or stroll into its center. However, none was more charming than the hidden paradise above – Landour.

Landour, O Landour!

Linked to Mussoorie via busy Mall Road, Landour was named after the Welsh village Llanddowror. Mussoorie was lovely, but Landour was pure poetry. A place where untouched and untamed beauty knows no bounds. A walk to the famous Lal Tibba viewpoint is filled with lush greenery interspersed with wildflowers and endless views of the surrounding valley, mountains and Mussoorie.

Connect with yourself

Sign-bearing trees remind visitors to maintain peace, calm and quiet. Each bend of the road offers a different perspective, each with its own level of beauty. We only came across a handful of people during our 1 km long walk and the occasional troop of monkeys. It was almost like walking in a wild, secret garden. One that, at night, overlooked a sea of twinkling lights that rivaled the stars above.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Where storybooks come alive…

If Landour was poetry, our property Rokeby Manor, was a storybook. One that let us write our own story.

Timeless beauty…

Our “suite” was a pretty pink room with flowers painted on the archway between the sitting and bedroom areas…a little wooden chest was dressed with a vase filled with fresh flowers, with a fireplace that just begged to be lit. The “Tea” Garden was exactly as you might picture a garden in a storybook – flowers spilling from pots, with little white garden furniture and flagstone paths.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The most incredible experience, however, was watching the sunset over the town of Mussoorie. There, sitting on benches outside the Tea garden amidst the flowers, beside ancient tree, we simply sat and watched as the sky changed colours, until finally the stars appeared.

Sunset over the queen of the hills - Mussoorie and Landour, Uttarakhand, India
Sunset over the queen of the hills
Travel tip: The property offers an opportunity to meet and dine with famous author Ruskin Bond. Book ahead to avoid disappointment.

Life should be all Momos, Maggi and Ginger lemon tea…

The heart of Landour: Char Dukan

Most of the eateries in Landour are owned by the restaurateur Sanjay Narang. Before a hearty meal at Rokeby Manor’s famous restaurant Emily’s, we walked over for drinks at the Stray Dog pub. The British style pub had dark wooden paneling and leather couches/bar stools. A little fireplace and large TV filled one wall, while a dartboard adorned another. If it weren’t for our glasses of Sula Satori Merlot, we could have been in any place in England.

Life should be so simple, tasty and refreshing

Despite the winning ambience of both the places and the unparalled views from Cafe Ivy, our favourite meal had to be the one we had at Char Dukan (four shops). Located in the heart of the town, Char Dukan is literally a line of 4 shops. Touted as legendary cricketer Sachin Tendulkar’s favourite haunt in town, Tip Top is the most famous of the lot. As was customary, we paused for lemon tea, chocolate waffles (too sweet) and Maggi at Char Dukan. The next day, we were back for some Momos with more of the delicious lemon ginger tea. The meals were simple, fresh and tasty.

Exactly how life should be.

Standing still or still standing?

Mussoorie and Landour reminded us to appreciate the little things in life: good food, fresh air, natural beauty and the importance of being quiet and still.

Some places transport the mind to a place beyond any map. A place where you have time to stand and stare. Time, as is its nature, did not stand still; but, we did. 

Be still; Stillness reveals the secrets of eternity – Lao Tzu

Wild Encounter: A South African Safari

Disconnect to reconnect. Experience the thrill of the wild, beauty of silence and luxury of life with a South African Safari.

Pouring rain drowns the sounds of the bush and for a brief moment, the sky becomes as wild as the earth below her. Under cover of a nearby tree, three male lions stand tall as they patiently wait for the downpour to stop. Suddenly, the dark sky clears and the sun peeps between fluffy clouds. A little leopard turtle emerges from its shell to amble across the road and once again, the bush comes alive.

image…Waking up at the crack of dawn to go jostling in a 4×4 over unpaved paths to see wild animals was not my idea of relaxation. Yet, there I was at Lion Sands in the Sabi Sands Reserve of Kruger National Park, somehow awake at an ungodly hour and ready for a game drive with the husband, our friendly guide, talented tracker and a few fellow guests. The supremely comfortable Land Rover roared to life and off we went.

Safari away…

A picture of tranquility

Birds chirped out greetings as we made our way through the bush. Our first sighting had us smiling: a herd of Impalas that capered about as they chomped on juicy grass. A little further, we chanced upon a baby elephant following its rather large and protective mama. We watched in admiration as they passed. Then, seemingly out of nowhere, our guide whipped out a tablecloth that he spread on the hood of the Land Rover along with some refreshments.

A territorial leopard

After the brief ‘picnic’, we set off again. Suddenly, the guide killed the engine. He and the tracker got down on one knee to examine fresh droppings and some pugmarks. Just as suddenly, they veered off the road and onto the long green grass, slashing and forging their own path before stopping a few feet away from a lounging leopard. How they managed to pinpoint the leopard’s exact location remained a mystery, but we chalked it down to experience.

Roaring beauty

Later that day, we spotted a lion and lioness awakening from their siesta and moved in close enough to see their teeth as they yawned. As we drove into the sunset, we stumbled upon most of the wild animals on our bucket list, including catching: giraffes wandering, rhinos sunbathing, male lions prowling, a lioness walking with her cubs and zebra grazing. However, just as the husband aimed his camera at the zebra, our naturalist  became very excited and asked us to be seated immediately.

Quickly, he maneuvered our vehicle over the grassland and sped in the same direction as a few other vehicles. Apparently, someone had just spotted the elusive wild dog. For wildlife-simpletons like us, abandoning zebra to watch dogs seemed strange.

Wild dogs keeping watch

Nevertheless we chased the pack of wild dogs and reached just in time to watch them hunt a baby Impala. Wild dogs are vicious, relentless and merciless and do not bother to kill their prey before eating it. We saw the poor baby fight to its death. The sight was too horrific to watch, yet we could not stop watching. Our heart went out to the baby Impala and yet, we understood it was the natural order of life at work.

Why Safari?

In the bush, life is unpredictable. It is this reality that is at once thrilling and humbling. The images of life at its simplest, fill the mind until all other thoughts are erased. There are no mobile phones, laptops or televisions; only the bush, its inhabitants and its guests. The clarity of thought, depth of relaxation and the extent of grounding experienced with a safari holiday are unmatched.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Which Safari?

Think safari, think Africa. Where in Africa, depends on the purpose. To witness wildebeest migration, Kenya and Tanzania; for an out-and-out safari holiday, Botswana or Namibia; for the first-timer or a light taste of adventure – South Africa.

A window to wilderness

We fell into the latter category as safari was a part of our trip to South Africa and not the sole purpose. Selecting the right property is important as besides the safari and bush walks, relaxation is the only item on the agenda.

While there are some incredible properties, the Lion Sands River Lodge in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve ticks all the right boxes:

  • Luxurious rooms with vaulted ceilings and a wall of windows that overlooks the river and offers an opportunity to spot wildlife from bed
  • Experienced and knowledgeable guides and trackers
  • Warm and welcoming staff; every time a vehicle enter or exits the property, the security guard performs a little jig
  • Delicious African-inspired meals, with the highlights being vegetarian bunny chow (curried vegetables on a bun) and homemade chakalaka sauce (special hot sauce)
Travel tip: The property offers a unique experience for those brave enough to face the wild alone: dinner and overnight stay under the stars in a lone treehouse amidst the bush.

To safari or not to safari…


Watching wildlife in its natural habitat is at once humbling, exciting and enlightening. While wildlife spotting largely shapes the safari experience, the property, people and land complete it.

There is something almost magical about the land. Maybe, it is the rarity of finding something so raw and unspoilt. Or maybe something as simple as watching the land and its creatures awaken to a new day.

Or maybe, the sheer beauty of silence. A silence so profound that every breath and whisper is audible. A silence so peaceful that it calms the soul. A silence so complete that it frees the mind. A silence that, if heard, conveys what it means to be one with nature.

Sometimes, we have to disconnect from the world and connect with nature to reconnect with ourselves.

Additional Travel Tips
  • For the luxury traveler: incredible high-end properties abound, but two unique options are Ulusaba and Singita Boulders Lodge
  • For local booking assistance: contact Cape Portfolios
  • For the safari enthusiast: Game reserves may be fenced or unfenced. The unfenced game reserves – such as Sabi Sands – allow free animal movement and are considered a more ‘natural’ safari experience
  • For photography enthusiasts: properties may offer cameras on hire, but memory cards need to be purchased
%d bloggers like this: