Celebrate the festival of colours, Holi, with a king in the land of kings (Rajasthan, India).
Red, pink, yellow, green, purple…colours rain down and scatter in the wind. Water balloons sail in the air, bodies flail in tubs of coloured water and water gun fights are accompanied by war cries and wild laughter. Only one Indian festival turns adults into havoc-wreaking children – Holi…the festival of colour.
Trays of colour await
For most people, colours are a part of life, but for India, they are an annual cause for celebration. Every March, the country celebrates the most vibrant of all Indian festivals – Holi. For one day the earth becomes a veritable rainbow and the pot of gold is hallucination spurred by copious amounts of bhang (a traditional marijuana-laden drink).
The celebration ranges from spiritual and cultural to wild and insane. From funky beach parties and bonfires to elaborate house and foam parties, the country cheerfully goes crazy and what might normally be considered vandalism, is considered joyful celebration.
A Holi-day to remember: Mingling with a king in the land of kings
While there are many ways to experience the festival around the country, head to the Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur (Rajasthan) for a truly extraordinary experience. Guests of the palace hotel have an opportunity to experience Holi with Maharaja Gaj Singh II (current owner of the property) and his family – a truly grand affair.
Operated by the über luxury arm of the Indian Hotels Company Limited (Taj), this impressive property is one of the world’s largest living residences and can only be described as ‘magnificent’. Rising dramatically above the desert capital, the Umaid Bhawan Palace offers panoramic views of the Blue city with the Mehrangarh Fort in the distance. The stunning sandstone exterior, luxurious Indo-Deco interiors, gorgeous landscaping, rich history, indulgent cuisine and superlative service make this authentic palatial beauty a living fantasy.
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Besides the grandeur, the Umaid’s heritage, heart and hospitality set it apart. Originally commissioned to provide a source of income to famine-struck villagers, the Umaid Bhawan Palace embodies the caring spirit of its commissioners. The palace hotel’s welcome folk dance sets the tone for this one-of-a-kind hospitality experience that is a combination of its royal heritage and the legendary Taj ethos.
Over the years, the Palace has not only played host to numerous dignitaries, glitterati and other A-listers, but also formed the set for many incredible weddings and events. The Umaid, and more importantly, the Maharaja (or Baapji as he is well known) know how to throw a party. Not just ‘a’ party…a royal party.
In keeping with tradition and its inherent grandeur, Holi at the Umaid is a once-in-a-lifetime experience – complete with celebrity guests that may include the likes of Sting and Chelsea Clinton.
A royal, classy and colourful celebration
Come Holi, the vast lawn transforms into a backdrop for a glamorous and colourful fete. Pretty white tents adorn the lovely lawns, while a bright sprawling tent features a fabulous feast and dining tables with festive centerpieces. Colourfully dressed elephants add a royal touch to the event. Plates of colour and tubs of water are spread across the lawns for guests to soak, splash, spray and paint each other.
Dressed in traditional Rajasthani attire, folk dancers and musicians entertain guests and villagers alike as they line up to put gulal (coloured powder) on the Maharaja, maharani, prince and their friends.
The colourful gathering paints a pretty picture
Guests are given the royal treatment. From breakfast to lunch, the party continues and all senses are completely overwhelmed: the brilliant colour against the sandstone palace is a visual treat while folk music and musical laughter set the rhythm; delicious food and drink indulge the taste buds and the perfume of sunshine and fresh grass fills the air as joy overflows all around.
A colourful embrace
Covered in the colour of joy
Onlookers oversee fascinating festivities
An alternate reality exists for those that choose to indulge in some customary bhang-laden food and drink. If the world suddenly appears too bright, or you question your existence or cannot stop doing whatever activity you are doing, or doze off into deep slumber, know that you are probably experiencing the effects of bhang.
Colours of life…
Holi at Umaid Bhawan Palace is as much about celebrating an age-old tradition in a timeless setting, as it is about the royal treatment. For some, this celebration may seem a bit contrived, but for the fortunate, it is a great way to experience the festival in a glamorous, safe and extraordinary manner.
For one day, royalty and normalcy merge till it is impossible to differentiate where one begins and the other ends. Reluctance gives way to total loss of inhibition as grown adults embrace their inner child and celebrate the colours of life.
Bhang or no bhang, memories of Holi at Umaid Bhawan Palace continue to shimmer in mind-altering hues…
Timeless grandeur
Beyond Holi
If you are upright the next day, be sure to visit the Mehrangarh Fort for beautiful views of the blue city. An architectural gem and famous for its cameo in ‘The Dark Knight Rises’, the fort now features the ‘flying fox’ zip line for the more adventurous.
Majestic Mehrangarh Fort overlooking the blue city
Blue skies over Mehrangarh Fort in the blue city
Bird’s eye view of the blue city from Mehrangarh Fort
Alternatively, plan to arrive a day before Holi to take in the city, and stay a day after to enjoy the luxurious Jiva Grande Spa treatments. After the sensory overload, relaxation is a must.
Discovering destinations through sport creates an emotional connect to the place and its people that few other activities can match.
It has always been the husband’s dream to watch a match in every cricket stadium in the world. Factor in a business trip to Australia, the World Cup with India playing well, plus the fact that I never miss a travel opportunity and well, we were off.
A waving Indian flag at MCG
Aside from the prospect of engaging in “sport tourism” for the first time, Australia’s scandalous history and ongoing status as the playground for Master Chefs give it unique appeal. The trip taught me a very important lesson: pay attention to proverbs; they are true. So true, that I was inspired to create some of my own variations.
Though there are some incredible places in the country and a host of wonderful activities for all age groups, our trip focused on food, fun and sport in two lovely cities. A taste of Sydney, with a touch of Melbourne.
Travel tip: Americans can enter more than 150 countries without visa. Australia is not one of them.
Well begun is half done; pick your destination.
Work and cricket clearly motivated our visit to Australia. But, before setting off, we had a crucial decision to make: If visiting Australia for the first time and travelling to both Sydney and Melbourne, where to spend more time? Sydney or Melbourne?
Research, expert opinions and pictures left us nothing but confused and the husband conveniently left the decision to me. Fortunately, while reviewing the events calendar, I discovered that the annual food festival – Taste of Sydney – was taking place around the same time as our visit and the choice was made. Except for match day in Melbourne, we decided to explore Sydney.
FYI: Sydney is much larger and has relatively more of an “Australian” feel than Melbourne, which is kind of like a small big city that is decidedly more European in its bearings and personality.
Standard does not equal special
Despite their added character, boutique properties are often overlooked for the tried-and-tested comfort of chain hotels. In Sydney, stay at the wonderfully wacky and swanky QT Sydney.
Stylish Gowings Bar at QT Sydney
The location is fantastic – smack in the middle of CBD’s shopping zone and next to the State theatre, the hotel and its Gowings bar are always buzzing. Although there are hotels far more luxurious than the QT, it’s charm, character and style add that “je ne sais quoi” to the Sydney experience. Not to mention, the interesting ‘outfits’ worn by the doorwomen.
Where there is a will, there is a way; if you want to eat it all, you can.
A Taste of Sydney
There are so many fabulous eateries in Sydney that it is virtually impossible to cover them in one trip. However, a great way to eat your way through the city without breaking the bank, is to visit during ‘Taste of Sydney‘. The event is held in the lovely Centennial park, with tents pitched for restaurants, vendors, drinks, gourmet treats and live demonstrations.
While we had several nibbles and tipples, the most memorable ones were: purple potato gnocchi with wild mushroom, pine nut, chilli and salted dried ricotta by Popolo, carrot, yoghurt and liquorice by Cafe Paci, organic vegetarian celery gratin, pickled black walnuts and Granny Smith apples by Ananas, Tiramisu ice cream with marsala jelly, coffee soaked Savoiardi biscuits and cocoa nib tuile from Otto Ristorante.
Beer break at ‘Taste of Sydney’
It’s not just the memory of the food that stays with you, it’s the whole experience…gourmet food in a beautiful park, on a lovely sunny day, with lively music. Bliss!
Tip:Pre-check the menu to ensure there are sufficient options to meet your dietary preferences, approximate cost of ticket and prioritize dishes.
Dining suggestions (vegetarian-friendly):
For fine dining on the waterfront, try Chef Matt Moran’s Aria at Circular Quay. Ask for a table by the window.
For live band music in a relaxed ambiance, head to the oldest pub in Sydney – The Fortune of War (165 yrs and counting). One of few pubs open late on Sunday in The Rocks, it makes up for with character, crowd and entertainment what it lacks in aesthetics.
Drinks in the Prohibition Era at Palmer & Co.
For delicious Chinese food served in a classy ambiance, head to Mr. Wong’s in CBD. Top up your drinks by taking the elevator down to Palmer & Co…a bar modeled after Prohibition era Chicago
For light meals with a view, head to the aptly named Opera bar
For a quick bite, stop by one of the many outlets of Sabbaba falafel
For comfort food served with a view, hop on the ferry to Manly for pizza at Hugo’s followed by dessert at Max Brenner nearby. Don’t forget to request for a table facing the water.
For the love of pancake, head to the nearest Bill’s for the best ricotta pancakes in the city!
For a memorable gourmet experience in CBD, head to Jamie Oliver for dinner, and follow it up with drinks at The Baxter Inn.
Never judge a book by its cover…or a bar by its door.
The Whiskey Wall at The Baxter Inn (Image Source: TimeOut Sydney)
If there’s only one bar you can go to in Sydney, make it The Baxter Inn. One of the world’s best bars, it is hidden behind an obscure and nondescript door of a rather shady narrow alleyway.
…But once inside, the dinghy alley gives way to a classy up-scale underground tavern, complete with a backlit wall lined with hundreds of bottles of whisky. Talented bartenders whip up incredible concoctions and classics.
Tip:Ask the bartenders to surprise you and prepare to be amazed at how accurately they gauge drinking preferences.
All that glitters is not gold, but it may still be priceless
The glittering Sydney skyline is a treat for sore eyes. No matter which angle we saw it from – and we saw from many – it was always stunning.
To be specific, we saw it glinting in the morning sun, sparkling at sunset and twinkling in the night from:
Atop Harbour Bridge: a view made possible via Harbour BridgeClimb, a 90-min overpriced, but perfect, exercise. The pace was a bit like a brisk walk, but not vigorous enough to cause breathlessness. The facts are fascinating, feat amazing and views fabulous.
Outside Sydney Opera House: a view of the afternoon sun or sunset with the Harbour bridge and city in the backdrop is lovely.
Upon Mrs. Macquaries chair: the best view in Sydney is from a little rock bench carved by convicts. Located by the Royal Botanical Gardens, the bench offers a gorgeous view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House in the same frame. One, which is even more beautiful at sunset.
Over water: a great view of twinkling city lights is from the ferry that crosses from The Rocks to Manly (or vice versa) in the night.
View from Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair
View from the Opera Bar
View from atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge
View of twinkling Sydney lights from the Manly ferry
So much sparkle could have been blinding, if it wasn’t so beautiful. Priceless.
The early bird gets the worm…and the early spectator gets the seat.
The husband and I are not Opera fans, but we love plays and decided to catch one at the infamous Sydney Opera House. We picked a show that had received great reviews, “Suddenly Last Summer”, and combined traditional theatre with live video. Paired with a tour of the architectural marvel and topped off by a drink at the Opera bar, it had the makings of a perfect evening.
The Sydney Opera House
…And it almost was. The tour was vera fascinating (highly recommended) and we loved hearing the story behind how one of the city’s most iconic structures was engineered. The Opera Bar was lovely, but then came the show.
We had procrastinated for buying the tickets, thinking we could buy them on the spot. As it was, the show was standing room only and we ended up watching the play on our feet for a good 90 mins. While the rest of the evening was still enjoyable, it would’ve been far more enjoyable if we had simply booked our seats early.
Tip:Book your seats in advance. Popular shows – even those that may be long-running – can sell out quickly.
Who travels for love (or cricket) finds a thousand miles not longer than one
Living the dream at the Sydney Cricket Ground
Gastronomy and drama aside, the sole reason for our visit was our (well, mostly the husband’s) love of cricket. Though we spent a longer time getting to Australia than in the matches, the trip was totally worth it. The grounds, crowds, weather, sledging and beer, contributed to one hell of a cricketing experience. Great matches may be played anywhere, but great viewing experiences come with watching the game in world-class venues.
We saw two quarterfinal matches: South Africa vs. Sri Lanka in Sydney and India vs. Bangladesh in Melbourne. Watching cricket from both the Sydney (SCG) and Melbourne Cricket Grounds (MCG) is a cricket lover’s dream come true. Both grounds are incredible, but while the SCG is more of a heritage structure and traditional cricket ground, MCG is a massive stadium.
The Sydney Cricket Ground
The Melbourne Cricket Ground
The spirit of the game extended beyond the stadiums. It was in flags that waved in the most unlikely of places, strangers that hi-fived each other and became friends, or strangers that sledged each other for fun, or TV anchors and cameramen that we bumped into and chatted with (one kind cameraman actually paused his shoot to help us figure out our new camera). Or the lone man that ran across the ground mooning the crowd. All of these elements that add, and in some ways, create, the unique match-viewing experience.
Indian flags waving throughout MCG
The sea of blue at Melbourne Cricket Ground
But most of all, it was the crowd. SCG saw a mix of colours, but the sheer number of Indian supporters meant MCG was blue. The noise generated was as loud as that on home ground. Even though the MCG was partly empty for the India-Bangladesh match, the sound level in the stadium made it seem fuller…especially when India won the match and Rohit Sharma hit his century (which seems to happen whenever I’m in the stadium so, maybe I’m the lucky charm!). One of the highlights though, was listening to the national anthem reverberate across the stadium. It was enough to give us goose bumps.
No words can adequately describe the rollercoaster of emotions that accompany a good match, but suffice it to say that I’ve rarely felt as alive as when sweating in the sun, screaming my lungs out in support and cursing the poor opposition.
Slow down and smell the roses…or the ocean
Besides watching a winning game of cricket in the fabulous Sydney stadium and eating our way through the city, we decided to simply enjoy our destination.
For a change, we opted to do the simple things and didn’t try to see and do it all:
Drive around the coastline: A friend took us for a drive around the non-touristy parts of the city, so we could get a flavour of how the locals live. It was nice to simply follow the road without being stuck in a traffic jam.
Walk from Bondi to Bronte coastal walk: A fun and beautiful walk, that we did backwards (from Bronte to Bondi). Stunning views of the coastline and uninterrupted views of the ocean mixed with some random activities. We spotted Dolphins, worked out in an open air gym, caught a game of boules (Clovelly Bowling Club) and planned our burials (should we decide against cremation) at a cemetery with a stunning view. We followed it up with a hearty meal at Bill’s that likely replenished all the calories burnt during the walk!
…Sometimes, you just need to slow down and enjoy the moment.
A view of the Sydney coastline
Postcard from Bondi Beach
Open air gym along the coastal walk
Sitting on the edge
Beyond a game…
There are people that travel for sport because it is trendy or fashionable and there are those that do it for the sport itself. Whatever your reason, you must travel for sport at least once in life. Discovering new spaces through sport creates an emotional connect to the place and its people that few other activities can match.
If cricket does not appeal to you, pick your passion. The beauty of sport is how it allows complete strangers to bare and share all emotions with complete abandon for that brief period of time when all is forgotten except what is unfolding before the eyes.
But, while you’re at it, don’t forget to take a step back, soak up the sights, strike up some conversation, savor the cuisine, and slow down and breathe.